All you need are the following:

1. Lots of Zipties
2. A Drill, with the drillbit diameter large enough to fit a Ziptie through
3. Pieces of damaged body kit
4. Jigsaw Puzzle-building patience

Watch the video to find out how it’s done in detail…

Source:
http://www.phatsliggity.com/

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This 2TG comes with a 2-valve full “Hemispherical Chamber”. This is the same as the Chrysler 392-426 Hemi Head V-8.

This particular Cylinder Head design was the scourge of Top Fuel Engines from the 1960′s to now with just a little change in the Hemi design.

Besides Top Fuel dominance of this design, it was also the scourge of the “Stock & Super Stock” NHRA racing. This gives this design considerable potential that if an individual decides to Supercharge or use High Compression ratios, this can Embarrass a lot of our new High Tech Engines…

From my conversation with Engine builders from here in the US to the Phillippines, one thing comes absolutely clear to me…

The 2TG’s that are being built to run on the streets do not have enough “COMPRESSION”. It is at a disadvantage if run with anything lower than 12.5:1.

When this is built for the streets, compression ratios of 9.5:1 or 10.5:1 is usually used. At this compression ratios it is at a distinct disadvantage as i explained in the previous articles about chambers.

This Hemi Chamber design is lacking a “Swirl” component in the ports flow characteristic, this design lacks response in the low-mid RPMs. However as soon as higher engine speeds is attained this is where it shines….

When a Hemi headed engine is boosted by a Supercharger or a Turbo, now it is at its Best! This is due to the “Straight Crossover design of the Intake Valves”, which is directly in front of the Exhaust valve. This design, at High RPMs, is a tremendous advantage as the gases don’t have to make a 90-degree turn from intake to exhaust port.

I also noticed that when individuals put a stroker crank, they run the same rods that are far too short to start with.

Now when you add this much more stroke, the Rod/Stroke ratio becomes really bad. Cylinder wall side loading and internal reciprocating drag goes up… Result = Engine failure if you’re making serious power. If you’re not, then you’re probably lucky, but not for long…

For any “High-revving 4-cylinder engine”, keep the stroke smaller than the bore size.

The net effect is an engine that has a lot more bottom-end torque than previously. However, top-end RPM will be lower than before if the same induction and camshaft is not improved or upgraded.

If the induction and camshaft is upgraded to the next level, your RPM capability will still be limited by the bad stroke and rod combination.

However I noticed that these engines exhibit a lot of RPM potential.

The engine does not respond very well to changes easily as it could have, if it had the proper compression ratio as it was designed to be run with.

That being the case, if High Compressions past 12.5 is attained, this will be much more responsive to changes in cam, carburetors, and ignition improvements.

What does it need to be a serious Engine? I would keep the stock stroke, run the longest connecting rod possible and move the piston pin as high as possible to get the rod length!

And give it a lot of compression and run race gas. The result – A killer 4-cylinder!

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From switches and controls to center of gravity and safety, this video has got it covered.

Very informative if you ask me. And will be worth watching if you’re very much into attention to detail about tuning your own ride. You may learn a thing or two from this video. Enjoy!

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1. Install oversize valves if the engine has a bigger bore size. Installing bigger valves with stock bore size will just pinch and shroud intake flow around the valves closest to the cylinder wall.
2. Exhaust valves should be unshrouded as much but not as much as the intake valves.
3. Match the combustion chamber sides to the cylinder wall with out making it bigger than you have to!
4. Keep the combustion chamber CCs. at a minimum. A smaller combustion chamber yields more compression for a given piston.
5. Polish the chamber so it prevents the build-up of carbon and reflects heat back to the piston! ( Heat is Power).
6. If you have to choose between an open and a close chamber here is the difference: An open chamber will probably flow more on the flow bench. If you want to raise flow benches buy this heads! A closed chamber will probably flow less but has a much effective chamber and ‘BURN’ characteristics . Also requires less dome to achieve the same compression ratio! (more power with a flat top and smaller chamber)
7. The Valve affects the flow! The Valve Margin also plays into the mix. A thin margin creates a hot spot on its radius and screws up the flow off the valve and seats.

CASE IN POINT: When all is said and done with your ‘tricked’ heads make sure you pay attention on this! If your best power was achieve with 36-38 degrees of ignition timing before you modified the heads! And now you went faster but your timing requirements ended at 42-44 degrees you are in trouble! You have lost COMBUSTION EFFICIENCY and the added timing requires the engine to work against itself and its called NEGATIVE TORQUE! The engine has to work against the added 2 to 6 degrees more of crank angle at the time of ignition… If your new combo required less ignition timing to make more power, buy your engine builder a big SAN MIGUEL and give him your favorite Princess!!! LOL

NOTE: PRO-STOCK engines and NASCAR powerplants requiring 28 degrees of IGNITION TOTAL TIMING is an indication of an effective combustion chamber design! This is achievable by the combination of swirl and tumble flow in to the port, as well as some combustion chamber induced swirl. also a non-intrusive effective dome. The best piston is a flat top. When combined with high compression due to a compact chamber….

4 VALVE:

1. 4 valve breathes well but its drawback is its reduced flame propagation. Due to the absence of Quench! (some import heads have a quench pad and this is desirable in a normally aspirated engine or one with nitrous oxide).
2. On some 4V heads, the tumble situation of the heads reduces- instead of enhancing the flame front! This can be corrected but requires machining the heads and utilizing a custom piston with an extended quench pad. This is most beneficial on normally aspirated engines….

Questions? send us a message and we can post it or keep it confidential… Thanks Ben Alameda

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Another variation of this is the orange and yellow teardrop-shaped symbol.

But do you really know what these symbols really mean? Well then, JDMfan-san, you are about to find out.

Truth be told, the JDM Leaf, which in Japanese is known as the “Wakaba” mark or the “Shoshinsha” mark is officially called “The Beginner Drivers’ Sign”…

The orange and yellow “Fukushi” mark, or “Koriesha” mark, on the other hand, is a symbol for senior citizen drivers.

Don’t believe me? Look it up!

Wikipedia says:

The Shoshinsha mark or Wakaba mark, introduced in 1972, is a green and yellow V-shaped symbol that new Japanese drivers must display on their cars for one year. A driver must display this mark on the front and back of the car for one year after they obtain a standard driver’s license. This obligation is only for a standard license, not for motorcycles, large vehicles, special cars and so on. Drivers who consider themselves beginners may continue to display the sign, even after the period of a year.

Its official name is The Beginner Drivers’ Sign. Conversely, the orange and yellow “Fukushi mark” or “Koreisha mark” denotes elderly drivers. Both marks are designed to warn other drivers that the marked driver is not very skilled, either due to inexperience or old age.

So my dear JDMfan-san, are you an elderly driver, or a beginner driver? If you are neither, then don’t put it up.

Speeding down the highway overtaking anything in your path while sporting the JDM Leaf symbol is NOT COOL!

So is sporting an incorrectly installed JDM Tilting Plate Holder, which we have discussed in a previous article entitled: The PROPER use of the JDM Tilting Plate Holder

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I am not HellaFlush and most probably will never be (I drive a beat-up delivery truck) but I do appreciate the HellaFlush movement. I understand it, I know it, I admire it. So much so that I want it to be understood.

HellaFlush is when the tire is actually flush against the fender meaning half of the tire is actually above the fender and the sidewall of the tire will actually touch the fender when you hit a pothole or any gradual increase in elevation. Aggressive offset wheel, Low to the ground with a credit card fitment and you will definitely scrape 98.9% of the time driving in Manila.

Oil-pan scraping, Muffler scraping, side skirts thrashed, front lip obliterated, fenders beat-up and fender lining non-existent. Why is that cool? It isn’t. And that’s how it should be. People want to be different yes but being HellaFlush means having the dedication to be able to bear the wear and tear on your car and the trash talking people throw your way. As Mark Arcenal said “Its a lifestyle decision that many people don’t want to get out of and conform to.”

Rims wider than 7 inches and wrong offsets give the right fitment. Stretched tires are essential in being HellaFlush. So you can lower the car to be flush with the fender and so that you can have a more aggressive offset. Also a huge amount of negative camber is important so you can tuck the tire in the fender while having a low offset.

Some people frown upon stretched tires and low offsets and the whole HellaFlush scene. Just like how some people who swear by JDM products frown upon anything not made from Japan. To each his own I guess. Respect is the main thing that is needed in the car community. Let’s just not confuse being low as being HellaFlush. It takes a lot more than that. A lot of fender rolling, pulling and camber adjustments have to made in order to accommodate the low offset wheels.

It’s form over function, considering you have to sacrifice the full performance of your car by driving slow to avoid potholes and other obstacles. Not fully utilizing the power of your car because of being HellaFlush can actually be safe because you have to drive so damn slow. Haha!

People want to be different just like everybody else.. Try to understand this, being JDM is cool so much so that means it isn’t.

JS. Just Sayin’

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Engine builder #2. Decided to port/polish his heads and paid attention to
his chambers and was careful not to increase chamber volume and elected to
sacrifice flowing less and keep the chamber small! His airflow improvements
where modest compared to builder #1.

Who do you think will run better at the track???

After preliminary testing Engine #1 exhibited more horsepower and
performance all around. His total ignition lead INCREASED to now 38-40
degrees for best performance. The added airflow made this a success as it
shows at the track…

1. After doing the same Engine #2 exhibited the same performance and
   somewhat more responsive on all the speed ranges than #1! His powerplant did
   not flow as much on the flow bench and should have been relegated to and
   also ran…his total timing requirements DECREASED to now a total of 32
   degrees? What happened to this ?
2. If you ran these two head to head, engine #2 will probably make as
   much power or maybe even more than #1! Why? #1 engine’s compression was
   compromised and reduced by the chamber work to get airflow! (The added
   airflow could not compensate for the compression loss. The resultant
   negative torque load also added to this loss.)
3. Second and the most telling to a very competent Racing Engine
   Builder is the total ignition requirements! Engine 1 has to work against
   itself (loosing power) to get around the added 8 degrees of timing (called
   negative torque). Not only this is harder on the pistons, crank, and rods,
   also think about the bearings’ added loading.
4. Engine #2. Less timing requirements exhibited a more EFFICIENT
   COMBUSTION CHAMBER. This engines compression ratio was not compromised or
   reduced in search of airflow. This equals to more power because of its
   higher compression ratio.
5. If these two would road race for a distance #2 will go farther
   because it is running efficiently than #1. How many races was lost when the
   other guy had to pit earlier and more or just plain ran out of gas!!! Racing
   Engines are not about all power but of efficiency as well… The only
   exceptions are probably Top-Fuel or Funny Cars.
6. Drag Race? Same thing, the car exhibiting higher compression
   normally leaves or launches harder! And pulling ahead of the other engines
   because it is building more heat in the chamber! HIGHER COMPRESSION IS MORE
   HEAT = HEAT IS POWER!

I tested this extensively to evaluate the correlation of Chamber Volume
primarily and flow second and how it affects power:

Car: Ford Mustang.
Weight: 2900 lbs
Engine: SVO Ford Race Block (Nascar)
427 cid Small Block 4.125 bore X 4.00 stroke
Comp. Ratio 15.8+
Induction modified Holley 1050/Sheetmetal Intake
Headers 2.0- 2.1/8- 2.1/4 3 step with 4.00 collector
Combustion Chamber Volume 40cc’s

Best Pass: Medium Ports 285cfm’s @ 28 inches,40cc chambers
9.38@ 148mph! Normally Aspirated.

HP/CYL. .265 x 285 x 8 = 604hp. Flywheel. Theoretical HP based on airflow
capability!
Actual HP based on E.T. MPH and Weight:
660 hp @ the wheels= 720-740 Flywheel.
This proves that with a compact 40cc chamber, this engine exhibited the
performance of an engine with airflow capability of approximately 348cfms
instead of the actual
285 cfm when i tested it on my flow bench!!!
.265 x 348 x 8 cyl= 737 hp.

63 CFM LESS AND ABOUT 120-140 MORE HORSEPOWER!
TOTAL IGNITION TIMING REQUIREMENTS = 30 BTDC!!!!
KEEP THAT CHAMBER SMALL! NO BIG DOME! AND HIGH COMPRESSION WITH A FLAT TOP.
FLAME FRONT/BURN IS EFFICIENT AND NO DOME = LIGHTER PISTON AND NO DOME TO
IMPEDE THE FLAME FRONT AND LOOSING POWER…

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If you’ve seen Russ Swift perform during the Manila International Auto Show, then you would know what a J-Turn is. It’s what he does when he reverses the car, then flicks the steering wheel while locking the front wheels so as to make the car face the opposite direction, then puts it into forward gear to continue on the same direction – the whole maneuver completed within a narrow space between 2 Subaru Imprezas.

Wikipedia defines the J-turn as:
“A J-Turn is a driving maneuver used to reverse a backwards-traveling vehicle so as to continue driving in the same direction, but with the vehicle pointed forward.”

If you’d want to learn driving skills necessary to properly perform this maneuver, check out this video…


Video by TwoGuysRally.com

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Here are some tips for you to consider to protect your investment:
If you have a High-Lift Camshaft, Start and bring the engine to Racing Temperature (160 degrees at least). Then let it cool down on its own and re-start the process again “half a dozen times or more”. If you have the patience to do this. The reason is for your “NEW” valve springs to be slowly “heat conditioned to its stressed environment”!

I have been guilty of this when I was still trying to figure it out, I would immediately go to the track with my new springs, and engine. After I have gone through my checklist and go “Banzai”!! I trusted my engine and the damm thing rev all the way to 8600+ RPMs on the first several runs..

After several more runs my engine slowly lost its revving potential and the valve springs are gone! The reason I- Heat (thermal) Shock the springs and never gave it a chance to be conditioned in a new environment as it was manufactured, wound and placed in a box..

Just like the valve springs, Engine blocks have to be Thermally introduced, “Slowly” where they will take a permanent set as you hope it stays True and Round on its cylinder walls. The whole block you hope will not shift and take a different set. Imagine if you fire up and check everything and go all out!!! You and I have seen this and you know this engine is living on borrowed time and horsepower is compromised…

Once you have gone through your heat/cool cycle, Go out and slowly accelerate your engine to mid-RPMs and immediately let go of the gas and let it “Engine Brake” with out forcing it too much. Next go out to a faster speeds and let-off the gas and down-shift without forcing it from 4th to 3rd to 2nd and finally to 1st!

DO THIS ABOUT 6-12 TIMES AFTER YOUR HEAT CYCLING HAS BEEN DONE. AND IF YOU DO A “LEAK DOWN” CHECK – THE ENGINE RINGS WILL BE SEALED!
(This Engine ritual takes about 15 minutes and 4-8 miles)
NOW YOU ARE READY TO RACE!!! RINGS ARE BROKEN-IN….

As a side note, some people say the bearings need to be broken in. This is untrue as the clearances you have set, should not change as the oil cushions the surfaces and prevents direct contact between the bearing material and the crank.

I also believe these rituals even performed on a stock/mild engine will also be beneficial… I have been asked several times why i go “all out” the first time with a brand new engine. They did not realize i did my break-in at my shop….

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Iridium,Copper,Fine Wire,V-Power and Platinum to name a few…

Since our subject is about High Performance or Racing here is our focus…In a car that is constantly being raced, I don’t see the sense into putting a 100k type spark plugs on your car and expect it to perform “100% for a 100K miles or kilometers, and leave it there cause its supposed to last that long…
It about makes as much sense to say you have a Brake and Rotor Combination that’s good for a million miles! So you don’t have to worry about it on the next 5 years- when you race every week-end or when you can escape from the wife/Girl Friend(s) to go Racing Cars not Skirts…
I have run all Types of Fancy High Tech Spark Plugs. The Main difference is “They Idle much better and smoother”.

Did I see a difference in Power or Speed? a big NONE!

What Happened here? A spark big enough to initiate combustion will self immolate most of the combustible mixture in the chamber! It does not know if it was with an Iridium or Platinum. A certain minimum is required to combust the mixture and when it meets that criteria its all done and over it by itself.

Many Moons ago i tested 2 different ignition systems to know what is true and what is a commercial. My car was a street oriented Race Car. I proceeded to install a set of Points and a condenser from a Company named “Accel”. This is a Factory Ignition with an aftermarket Points, cap, and rotor. The Ignition timing was set to be all in by 4500 RPMs “Stock” !
I ran about 12.50′s all day at the track with no hint of miss-fire or ignition problems as i ran with a new set of spark plugs gap at .035.

Next week-end I re-curve the ignition timing to be all in at 2500 RPMs and proceeded to the Race Track. Result? I ran straight to the 11.90′s with a point type Ignition!!! This is great…now Electronic Time!!!

I installed an Electronic Distributor with a “Big Yellow Coil”. and an Ignition box. To keep it a sense of fair play the ignition was all in by 4500 RPMs like the stock set-up. this to compare apples to apples.
Off i went to the track and proceeded to run the SAME! wat the **
As i suspected all along, it is the IGNITION CURVE not the Ignition that makes a Racing Distributor. Racers that have done this for a long time know about this, and i just want confirmation for my crazy head.
I proceeded to adjust the curve on this Racing Distributor to come in at 2500 RPMs and it ran as i expected 11.90s…I spent money.
There is a distinct change in the engine however, Now it idles smoother and seems to be more responsive, must be that giant yellow coil! lol

Many years later now I’m in the World of 16.5 compression ratios, nitrous, turbos, and blowers. Ignition systems are now more advance and it still relies on the Trusty Spark Plug! It is like going to War with the latest Cannon in your M-1 tank and use ‘Civil War Iron Cannonballs for shells, but now its made of Platinum and Iridium!!!

We haven’t found a better replacement for our trusty Spark Plug.
But now we have multiple Spark Discharge Ignition and bigger gaps and much better wires or coils on plugs. All this is a far improvement from the points.
However on extreme Ignition requirements like Turbo’s or High Compression Ratios we somehow go back in reverse to make ignition possible in the “Dense Environment of Boost and High Compression”.
When we are modifying our engines more and more the trend is into bigger and larger spark plug gaps and bigger wires and distributor caps to prevent spark “Crossover”. This is the way it is done and that is correct.
However in the “Extreme Racing” environment we are now going in REVERSE as far as Spark Plug Gaps! The Spark Plug regardless of the Material used has to have a closer Gap to prevent Ignition “Blow-Out or Flame Out”. It is a closer gap of .028 or less that is employed to enable the spark to jump the gap! If left at the high performance gaps of .045 to .055+ the Spark will cross-over at the cap or to the next wire as it follows the path of least resistance.

Very High Compression or Boost Levels must run a smaller gap or your not going to complete your runs. All this Ignition systems require this to be the norm. This is a lot less than a stock Gap in your Honda or Chevy. There is absolutely no loss in Horsepower with this smaller gaps. So don’t be afraid to experiment closing it down till the “Ignition Miss” goes away….

SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE:

There are two things that are mysterious and more of a “Black Art” in Racing. Cylinder Head Porting and the Art of reading Spark Plugs!

I have a lot of experience in cylinder porting as a lot of you probably are, But with Flow Benches used every year by engine builders like me, we have come to certain conclusion of what works. However with the advent of the “Wet Flow Bench” technology all is out the window and back to zero as to what really works!

However on Spark Plugs it has basically stayed the same the last 100 years. So it baffles me that this art of reading plugs is still a mystery to a lot of people. I will try to simplify what works for me…

When you look at your spark plugs, when its been run combustion residue is evident in 2-3 turns of the spark plug threads. This will be one thing I look at.
When you increase compression ratio at least 2 points go to a “colder plug” from your baseline factory recommended heat range.
I basically run 1 range colder for the 2 points of compression increase.
Use a Spark Plug Reading tool with the lighted option. Use this to look at the center of the ceramic to spot black- grey dots as signs of detonation! BEWARE: Some manufacturers have this discoloration when you take the new plugs from the box! Check the condition before you start your testing….
If this Magnifying instrument is not available try to look at the center for the obvious if possible. If not, turn the plug on its side and look thru the plug opposite of a lighted lamp or anything bright and see if the center “electrode’s corners or tips are starting to round -off”.
This is evidence that you are “LEAN” and probably about to detonate/pre-ignite. The new plugs you just installed and run looks like it was there for the last 4 years and 40k miles where the center electrodes tips are rounded off and the gap consequently got bigger. The plugs sharp edges are starting to melt and rolls off.

Check the ground strap for the proper coloration as per information given by your manufacturer of your choice. Generally the color of the ground strap will start from the tip to halfway of the ground strap. A grey coloration of the spark plug ring is also something to look for. When this is the situation it is evidence of a correct heat range and an ideal or almost ideal Air/Fuel Ratio.

WARNING: When you use a given brand of spark plug, set your readings and get the proper coloration after your adjustments to timing and jetting, make absolutely sure you stay with this brand!
Another Spark Plug Manufacturer will show a different color or not show anything at all! I have watch numerous times individuals reading spark plugs and they will jack the timing one way and increase the jetting 3-4 steps with no obvious changes in spark plug color! Why? Because some do not read or are self cleaning through projected tips or other designs that are not for racing use…

Manufacturers have different Heat Ranges and some are narrow and some will span several ranges before you change to the next cold/hot plug. This is why they will color differently on a given engine….

Always Install New Spark Plugs when setting up…
When you do 2 or 3 FULL THROTTLE RUNS make sure on both runs you “CUT-OFF CLEAN ! by shutting off the ignition.
GET TOWED BACK TO THE PITS AND COOL DOWN AND AVOID “IDLING” YOUR RACE CAR.
GET TOWED BACK TO THE STARTING LINE. AND WHEN YOU MAKE THE LAST PASS CUT-OFF CLEAN AGAIN! AND GET TOWED BACK TO THE PITS !!!
NOW IS THE TIME TO PULL THE PLUGS AND READ IT.
The reason for this is the prolong drive back to the pits will discolor your readings.
WARNING: IF AND WHEN YOU CUT -OFF CLEAN AND THE ENGINE “SNEEZES OR BACK-FIRES” THROUGH THE INTAKE-, IT WILL NULLIFY YOUR PLUG READINGS…

INDEX YOUR SPARK PLUGS TO ORIENT THE GAP TOWARDS THE EXHAUST VALVE OR HAVE THE GAP FACING DOWN TOWARDS THE PISTON TOP WITH A SLIGHT TILT TO THE EXHAUST. MARK THE PLUG WITH A MARKER OR GET AN INDEXING TOOL. IF THE GAP IS INWARD TOWARDS THE HEAD CHAMBER INSTEAD OF THE TOP OF THE PISTON, THEN THE FLAME FRONT IS STARTING FROM THE WRONG DIRECTION….

MY OPINION ON THE DIFFERENT SPARK PLUGS AND MATERIALS USED IS “I KEEP IT SIMPLE AND BASIC”. A GOOD QUALITY SPARK PLUG WILL SUFFICE.
A SPARK THAT IS STRONG TO START THE COMBUSTION PROCESS IS ALL THAT IS NEEDED,COMBUSTION DOES NOT KNOW IF IT IS FROM A PLATINUM OR IRIDIUM ETC…
YOU CAN PROVE THIS THEORY WHEN YOU LOOK AT VERY HIGH BOOST OR NITROUS LEVELS ASSOCIATED WITH TODAY’S 2000 HORSEPOWER OR MORE ENGINES. IF THE BUILDER WILL ADMIT OR NOT WHAT HIS SPARK GAP IS? YOU WILL BE SURPRISED HOW SMALL IT IS…
THIS LENDS CREDENCE TO THE FACT THAT A SMALL SPARK IN A HIGHLY COMBUSTIBLE ENVIRONMENT WILL CREATE A COMBUSTION PROCESS…

Feel free to ask any questions below.

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